Looking for Winter Swells
Winter's coming, and with it, the chase for those massive swells begins. The eternal struggle: always chasing summer, always dodging winter—but then those waves start pumping, and suddenly, winter's looking pretty damn good. The hardest part? Deciding where to throw yourself into the deep end. Because there's no shortage of options, and each has pros and cons.
First, there's Hawai'i. North Shore, Oahu. This place is a pilgrimage every winter—pipeline and Waimea Bay—both legendary, both terrifying. You've got warm water and consistent sets, but you're fighting the crowds. Every pro with a board is out there, plus every guy who thinks he's a pro. Do you want to battle it with a hundred others for that perfect wave? Maybe.
Then there's Mavericks, California. When it starts working in Half Moon Bay, you know it. Waves here are massive—cold, raw, and ready to eat you alive. But that water? Freezing. The wipeouts? Brutal. Still, there's something about Mavericks that draws the heavy hitters. And let's be honest, catching a wave there would make for a hell of a story.
Portugal, though—Nazaré. Just saying the name makes your stomach drop. The waves here break records. It's the kind of place where people either get famous or get humbled. If you want to throw yourself into the biggest surf on Earth, this is where you go. But those waves don't mess around. One mistake, and you'll wish you stayed on the beach.
Australia has Shipstern Bluff in Tasmania, where winter hits differently. This spot is for the surfers who like things unpredictable and enjoy a bit of pain. Mutant waves, steps in the face of the wave—seriously, it's a beast. But man, the lineup's not packed, and the scenery? You won't find that anywhere else.
Ireland, on the other hand, offers Mullaghmore Head. Cold, stormy, and powerful—everything you'd expect from the North Atlantic. Winter storms churn up some of the most consistent swells in Europe, but you'll be wearing a wetsuit so thick it feels like armor. And you might need it. Those waves hit hard.
Or you could head to France, where Belharra Reef goes off. Clean, powerful, and a lot warmer than Mullaghmore. It's big, sure, but it has a specific style. Plus, you've got French food and culture when you're not getting hammered by waves. Not a bad trade-off.
Lastly, New Zealand's Piha Beach. Wild, rugged, and downright beautiful. Winter swells hit it just right. Strong waves, less crowd, and a backdrop that looks like a movie set. It's the kind of place where you could lose track of time.
So, how do you decide? Do you follow the crowds to the iconic breaks and risk waiting hours for a wave? Or do you chase the more remote, unpredictable swells, knowing you could score big or get skunked? Winter swells are rolling in, but choosing the spot—that's where the real stress kicks in.
But whatever you choose, you'll have to commit. Maybe you'll hit Nazaré and feel the total weight of the Atlantic. Or perhaps you'll brave Mavericks, knowing a single misstep could send you to the bottom. Me? You'll find me at Waimea, waiting for that perfect bomb to roll in. Maybe I'll see you out there—or maybe you'll be chasing those winter ghosts somewhere else.